DISCLAIMER: This was my personal experience flying during Covid-19. You should always check travel restrictions based on your location, as rules often change by the day.
I was mindlessly scrolling on my phone on May 14th, 2021, when I finally saw the words I’ve been waiting over a year to hear: “Italy is Officially Reopening for American Tourists.” I clicked on the link to see what the catch was. Starting May 16th, 2021, American tourists were finally welcome to travel my favorite country again, but under a series of restrictions. They must travel on one of Delta/Alitalia’s “Covid-tested flights.” This meant undergoing a variety of covid tests both in Italy and the US, and having a direct flight from either JFK (New York) or Atlanta to either Roma or Milano. I was pretty tempted to book the very first flight just two days later, but due to some scheduling conflicts, I decided to book it two weeks later instead. I purchased a one-way from JFK to FCO for June 1st, 2021 through Delta’s website for $364.
The first thing I had to do was find a place in NYC that would perform a Covid-PCR test and guarantee the results within 48 hours. Unfortunately for me, I did not remember that Memorial Day was the day before my flight, meaning several labs and testing places would be a little delayed in results due to the holiday. I scheduled 3 different tests just to ensure I would get at least one result within the allotted timeframe. The first one I scheduled was in Upstate New York through the nys.health.gov website. The second one was at CVS, and the third was at NYU Langone Hospital. The tests at CVS and through nys.health.gov were free, but for NYU, I needed to make an appointment which costs $120 in order to be “referred” for a test. The appointment took maybe two minutes, and I was able to do it directly from my phone through the NYU Langone app. After my appointment, I was sent a link to schedule a test, which I did for 8am the day before my flight. NYU had my test results back to me within six hours, so though it was the only one I had to pay for, it deemed to be the most efficient. They even gave me a pamphlet when I went in for testing to show to the airline to prove they were a legitimate testing site. For any future travels, I will be using them. I did end up getting all three test results back in time, but NYU was still my preferred choice. I should note that I am fully vaccinated and was at the time of travel, but Italy still required a negative PCR test within 48 hours of departure and did not ask me about my vaccination status prior to departure. Something else to note is on the Delta website, it stated you must have a negative Covid-test within 72 hours of departure, but on the Alitalia website, it said you must have a negative Covid-test within 48 hours. This was obviously confusing, so I just ensured to get a test within 48 hours to play it on the safe side. It turned out that it was indeed 48 hours; when I checked in to my flight at the airport, I witnessed two people being turned away due to their Covid test being outside of the required timeframe. Welcome to the new age of travel, my friends!
Aside from getting a PCR test prior to departure, I also needed to fill out a European Union tracker form, specifically for Italy. This form was digital, and once it was done, it came with a QR code which I screen shot and saved in case I was to need it at any time during my travels. The form asked for my name, passport number, flight information, where I was going, where I was staying, and most importantly, where I plan to quarantine should I test positive for the Corona-virus. To be completely honest, I did not have a plan as to where I would quarantine, but I listed my hotel that I had already booked just to have something to fill in the blanks. This is something to think about though, and you have to determine if it’s really worth it to travel during these unprecedented times when you are asked questions such as this one.
Once I filled out my form and got my negative test results, I had little to do other than pack and prepare for my Italian vacation. Though I was able to check in online, I was not given a boarding pass until at the airport. Alitalia needed to check my requirements to make sure I met them all. I arrived to JFK airport three hours early, and was able to skip the long line of Alitalia because I had filled out that European tracker form earlier. It’s never a bad thing to come prepared! Once they saw my PRINTED test results (they would not accept digital) and my QR code for the EU tracker (plus the email confirmation that I had filled it out), I was sent over to a flight agent to fully check in. Though I planned to only use a carryon, I was over the 9kg weight limit for Alitalia’s carryon policies, and I was required to check it instead. Checking one bag with my ticket was free. I was wearing my purple satin mask that I purchased off of Etsy, and was told that would not be eligible on the flight. They required a medical mask which they sold at airport vending machines for $1. She asked for my departure ticket from Italy to prove I was not going to overstay my welcome. I have had this happen in the past for several countries, but never for Italy.
(Travel Tip: If you are not sure how long you want to spend in a place and plan to wing it, but they ask for proof of a departure ticket, buy the cheapest flight out via Orbitz.com, and show them that. Once you show it, you can cancel it as Orbitz has a free 24-hour cancellation policy.)
I was also told, upon arrival in Rome, I needed a rapid Covid test at the airport before being allowed to safely travel throughout the country. I was somewhat expecting this, but this was also lost in translation with both Alitalia and Delta. On the Delta website, it said I would be required to undergo a rapid test at Fiumicino Airport in Rome, but on the Alitalia website, it said as long as I have a negative Covid test taken with 48 hours of departure, I would not need to undergo a rapid test. When I asked the woman who told me this just to clarify, she got a little snappy with me saying, “If you are traveling to another country, you need to follow their rules.” For the record, I was happy to abide any rules as long as Italy was letting me in, I was just trying to clarify the miscommunication I had received prior.
Once I received my boarding pass, I was headed to buy a medical mask before going through security. I asked an airport employee where the nearest vending machine was, and he ended up giving me an entire pack of medical masks! Mia fortuna was already looking good for this trip. I went through security and had some time to kill, so I stopped by the lounge near Gate 9 at Terminal 1. I had a glass of wine and some snacks, but I was incredibly anxious and nervous about flying to another country. It had been quite some time, and I was genuinely conflicted if I was being selfish or if it was okay because I had followed all of the rules. We began boarding, and I was finally on the plane, headed to Italy! I tried to recline my seat and had no such luck. The aircraft had major room for improvement, but at least I had a television to watch some movies and TV. Immediately after takeoff, they came around with a small meal of ravioli, cheese, crackers, water, and tiramisu. I asked if they had any wine, and the answer was no. Mamma mia! No wine for an eight-hour overnight flight during a pandemic?! Usually, I have no problem sleeping on an airplane, but between the seat that did not recline, my nerves through the roof, and the lack of vino to relax me, I did not sleep for even a minute of that flight.
Once I arrived in Rome, the chaos kicked into full gear. As soon as I exited the plane, there were Alitalia employees holding signs for connecting flights to Napoli, Bari, Palermo, and Genoa. I wish I had known this, because my plan was to head directly to Bari, but I saw the flight was at 9am, and I landed around 7:30am, so I assumed with the Covid test at FCO, I would not make the flight. I ended up booking a six-hour Flixbus ride instead. However, if I had booked the connecting flight to Bari, I would have been pushed to the front of the Covid test line to ensure I made it on time. Learn from my mistakes and book a connecting flight through Alitalia if you plan to travel further from Rome.
We were all instructed to register for a Covid test online. We had to fill out a form very similar to the EU tracker, stating where we would quarantine if we were to test positive. The cost of the test is 20 euro, and they only accept card (which worked out great because I had not hit an ATM for euros yet). I was given a little slip with the number 64 on it, was sent to a counter, they did ask me if I was vaccinated and I showed them my Pfizer card, and then they jammed a Q-tip up each nostril for my test. I have had several tests done, and this one wins for the most painful. While waiting for my test results, they held onto my passport until I was confirmed negative. Seven minutes later, they called number 64, et voila, my negative rapid results had come back, and I officially was free to explore the country.
I was not entirely sure if all of these precautions would be worth it, but now that I have been in Italy for ten days with more adventure ahead of me, I can say, I am happy I made the decision to give myself a treat of visiting the world’s most beautiful country.
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