After a series of spontaneous decisions, while in Florence, I cancelled my ticket back to New York City to extend my time in Italy. I had no idea where I was going, where I would sleep, or what I would do, but needing to make a quick decision, I looked on a map and saw I was close to Perugia.
Its close distance to Florence aside, I was mainly drawn to Perugia because of it being the capital of Italy’s Umbrian region, a region I had only once visited by stopping at an “Autogrille” en route to yet another underrated region, Le Marche. This time around, I would actually get to see some of Umbria by spending time in the capital, Perugia. And like many Italian cities, Perugia is possible to see in just one day. Here’s what to do.
Pro-tip for Getting Around: Perugia is perched high in the hills of Umbria, so though apps like Google Maps *might* tell you you’re just a “20 minute walk” away from something, that walk likely includes some pretty steep hills. Luckily, with the city’s ever efficient “mini-metro,” which costs just 1.50 euro for a ride, it’s easy as ever to get around, particularly from the train station to the Old Town. Taxis are also available by calling.
Breakfast at Caffè Arco
Do you ever just find a place you gravitate toward when you travel? That’s what Caffè Arco became for me while I spent time in Perugia. I’d highly recommend swinging by here for a cornetto (croissant) or a panino in the morning, and stand at the counter with the locals while you sip your cappuccino or cafe doppio. The paninis here are pretty good portions and under 4 euro.
Visit Piazza IV Novembre
Just around the corner from Caffe Arco is the most popular sight in Perugia: Piazza IV Novembre. This is, as the name suggests, a piazza, filled with shops, monuments, sights, and is generally just a beautiful area for people-watching. Some of the best sights to see in Piazza IV Novembre are:
- Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria
- Fontagna Maggiore
- Pozzo Etrusco
- The underground caves of Perugia Sottorranea Accesso inside Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (book tickets here)
To best enjoy the Old Town, book this walking tour.
Chocolate tasting around the city
Torino is frequently referred to as the chocolate capital of Italy, but Perugia could give the Piemontese city a run for its money. Chocolate is HUGE in Perugia, and you will see chocolate shops all over the city. I’d recommend swinging in a few different chocolate stores, like Chocostore by Eurochocolate and Corso Vennucci 3, and seeing which ones you like best.
Perugia is so serious about its chocolate consumption that they even have an annual chocolate festival called EuroChocolate. There’s also a chocoalte factory.
Eat Maritozzo at Antica Latteria
I hope you didn’t curb your sweet tooth with all of that chocolate, because you are about to grab a snack at one of the most historic places in perugia: Antica Latteria. Here, you’ll find maritozzo, a brioche pastry stuffed with panna, or fresh whipped cream. With a touch of savory thanks to the brioche and a whole lot of sweet, these pastries are best dipped in European style sipping chocolate, or Italian hot chocolate. It’s rich, but with an establishment that’s over 100 years old, it’s simply a must!
Pro-Tip: If you want the best cuisine of the Umbrian region, book this food tour of Perugia.
Aperitivo at Ristorante del Sole
Now, it’s time for the best part of any Italian day: aperitivo! For a bar/restaurant with some seriously stunning views, head to Ristorante del Sole. Their patio overlooks the city, where, in the distance, you can see the rolling hills and mountains of the region. It’s quite the breathtaking scene, and they have a full cocktail and food menu if you choose to stay a while.
Dinner at Osteria a Priori or Cinque 25
While I’d usually be a stickler and only recommend one restaurant for dinner, I had two fantastic dinners in Perugia for two very different reasons.
If you want a traditional Umbrian meal, Osteria a Priori is your best bet in town. Try fagiolini del Trasimeno (beans from Trasimeno, aka the nearby beautiful Umbrian lake), panzanella (bread salad), and, of course, strangozzi pasta with fresh black truffle. While Alba might be known for its truffles, truffles are just as abundant in Umbria and can be found on nearly every menu in Umbria.
For something more contemporary, Cinque 25 is a fantastic restaurant with an impeccable selection of natural wines. There, I tried faroana, aka guinea fowl, which was in an earthy sauce made of organ meat, and “caramelized taleggio,” which was like a puff pastry filled with the funky cheese.
You can’t go wrong with either place; it just depends on what you’re in the mood for!
End the night at VENTI VINO
With only one full day in Perugia, you simply must make time for the best wine bar in town: VENTI VINO. This woman-owned wine bar has a wide selection of natural wines from all over Italy, along with some cicchetti, or “snacks,” including bites like mixed meat and cheese and crostini with toppings like cod and veggies. It’s a great place to meet locals, or to even setup shop and get some work done if you have a laptop, because they have strong WiFi (I wrote a blog post from there!). It’s a perfect place to end your perfect day in Perugia.
Where to stay:
There are a few solid options for hotels in Perugia:
- Primavera Mini Hotel — I spent five nights total in Perugia and this is where I stayed. This hotel is located right in the heart of Old Town and is only about a 15-minute commute from the main station in town.
- Chocohotel — When in Rome..errr, when in Perugia! Chocolate reigns superior in Perugia, so why not stay in a proper Chocohotel?
- Hotel Fortuna — For a historic, beautiful hotel with rooftop terrace, Hotel Fortuna is centrally located.
Optional Day Trips:
To get the most of your time in Umbria, check out some other nearby cities and things to do in the region:
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