World Wonder in a Hunch: How to See Petra on a 24-Hour Layover in Amman, Jordan

Anyone flying through The Middle East is likely to come across flight options via Royal Jordanian Airlines. All layovers would take place in Amman, and though some might only be one or two hours long, it’s worth calling the airline to see if you can extend it at no extra cost so you can spend some time in this tiny Middle-Eastern nation. When I went on a 4-country venture in the Middle East in March 2022, I had a long layover in Saudi Arabia on the way there. I love to utilize long layovers in random cities or countries just to sneak a little extra adventure in. Using this hack to do the same on the way home, I booked a flight through Royal Jordanian Airlines, flying from Istanbul, Turkey back to New York City. I was able to extend my layover to somewhere around 24 hours, landing at 5PM on Thursday, March 24, 2022, and leaving at 9PM Friday, March 25, 2022, for an overnight flight back to the US.

Obtaining A Visa

I was unsure if 24 hours would be enough time to knock out an epic bucket list tick for me: visiting Petra, my fifth World Wonder. I was damn-determined to try, though! On March 1, 2022, Jordan had finally lifted all Covid-restrictions, going from being one of the tougher places to travel to during the pandemic to one of the easiest. I knew Jordan was offering visas on arrival for US citizens, so as soon as I landed, I applied for my visa and was swiftly approved. The visa for US citizens costs somewhere around 55-60 USD, depending on the exchange rate at the time you go.

Arranging A Ride To Petra

Petra is around 3-4 hours from Amman International Airport, and though there’s plenty I wanted to see in Amman, my time simply wouldn’t allow for it, meaning I had to book it straight to Petra. Though there is a bus option to get to Petra, it only runs a few times a day. Because I landed at almost 5PM, there were no more bus options to get to Petra, so I knew my best bet was to either hire a driver or rent a car. Not wanting to rent a car and possibly drive at night, I decided to hire a driver. I arranged this ahead of time. The prices were outrageous. The cheapest I could find for one-way was around 85 JD, or roughly $120 through Jordan Taxi. I was not willing to pay that much, so I did my best to negotiate. Despite my best efforts, I was only able to get the price down to 80 JD, or about $112. Having seldom other options, I agreed. Reminder, this was only for ONE way. I made the most of it, and ended up with a very nice driver.

The 3-Hour Journey From Amman To Petra

I was curious as to what the road would be like from Amman to Petra. Let me be the first to tell you; Jordan is extremely desolate. There was not a whole lot going on. Just deserted, flat, tan. The roads were smooth which was nice considering how long the drive was. I was also fortunate to spend the ride with someone who was willing to chat, but not overly chatty. We stopped at about the halfway point, and I was given a free coffee while I walked around what can best be described as a souvenir shop. The options for beauty products were endless. There were dead sea salt-products for days. I gave in and purchased some lotions and bath salts both for myself and for my mom. The salesperson was not pushy whatsoever, which was a nice treat. This is common in Arab world; just genuine good-ol’ hospitality.

Arriving In The Town Of Petra

After your long, somewhat boring 3-hour ride from Amman to Petra, congratulations! You made it. I arrived in Petra at almost 9PM when all was said and done. Despite not eating dinner, I was exhausted, and decided I’d just go to bed. I wanted to wake up early to ensure I was one of the first visitors at The Treasury. I stayed at the centrally located Petra Plaza Hotel. Because I knew I’d be heading to The Treasury in the morning and didn’t want to rush back for checkout, I immediately asked if I could get a late checkout the following day. They said it would not be a problem. Always ask ahead of time to ensure you’re properly prepared and not rushed out. Your other option would be to have the front desk hold your bags so you don’t have to rush back to the hotel if you have plans. This does not only apply to Petra, but to everywhere you travel to. This hotel was great; it was a short walk from many restaurants, and was a hop-skip away from the entry gate at Petra’s historical site. Knowing I was running on limited time, I woke up early the next day. Petra Plaza Hotel offered free breakfast which was a huge perk. I drank some coffee, ate some delicious food, and headed out to explore by 7:30am.

And Now… For Petra Itself

Despite the hotel I booked being close to the entrance, I opted to take a taxi. I was there in March, and it was freezing and extremely windy. I was wildly unprepared and did not even have a coat with me. The town of Petra is also extremely hilly, and all I had were heels. As I said, I was damn-determined to see this World Wonder, so I didn’t let it phase me. A taxi from my hotel to the entry gate was $5. My taxi driver was shocked that I had no coat, and offered me his. I thought, how is that going to work? I’m never going to see this man again, but he insisted. He handed me his coat and told me he’d find me eventually, but if he didn’t, it was all good. I paid my entry price for Petra which was a whopping $70. Short-layover or not, Jordan was turning out to be expensive. From the entry gate, the walk to The Treasury is about 30 minutes. It is completely surreal once you peak through the narrow red rocks to get your first view. Well worth the expenses and the headaches to get there.

Show Up Prepared

I was surprised by several things. First and foremost, bring your passport to Petra. There are signs all over the entrance saying a passport is required to purchase a ticket. I almost cried because I did NOT bring my passport with me to the entry gate. Worst case scenario, I’d have to go back to my hotel to get it, but being on time crunch, I didn’t have time to waste. I lucked out, and they didn’t ask me for it, but it certainly wouldn’t have hurt to have had it.

Secondly, wear appropriate clothing. Though Jordan is not as stringent on dress codes as surrounding nations, it still is appropriate to cover up when at the holy site of Petra. More importantly, wear good shoes. Petra is a hike! If you want to get that famous insta-shot from the top, looking over the Treasury itself, you’d be surprised to know it’s a STEEP hike to get there. I did not know this, and though I managed to make it in my sparkly heel booties, I would highly recommend wearing something more practical. Perhaps the biggest takeaway from my experience is to look at the weather ahead of time. Do not assume the Middle East is always scorching hot; Jordan was chilly.

How Much Time To Spend At Petra Itself

The holy site of Petra itself is HUGE. You could easily spend upward of 12 hours there. I was there for about two hours in total. I went a little bit further than The Treasury, but getting nervous about time in general, I didn’t go much further. One thing that’s a must-do while near The Treasury is hiking to a higher elevation so you can get the best views this World Wonder has to offer. There will be many bedouins there, offering to help you to the top for a tip. You can give them the equivalent of a few USD (I believe I gave 5), and they will lead you to the top. You certainly could try to do it on your own, but I highly recommend just getting the help from one of them. It’s extremely steep and rocky, and if you tip one of them, you’ll get a nice cup of tea at the top. Spend as much time up there as your heart desires. I believe I spent about 30 minutes up there, taking in the views, patting myself on the back that I pulled off this epic adventure.

Spending Time In The Town Of Petra

You have two options. You can spend all of your time at the World Wonder, or you can enjoy some time in the town. I split my time, as I wanted just one local meal while in Jordan. I went to a tiny restaurant where no one else was, asked what they recommended, and was given a large plate of flatbread, lamb, and rice. Paired with a piping hot cup of mint tea, it was a memorable meal. Who says you can’t really see a place even in a time crunch?

If You Have Extra Time To Kill, See The Dead Sea

The man who gave me the coat at Petra was indeed waiting for me outside. I gave him his coat back, and he offered to drive me back to Amman. Though I did have a potential ride arranged, he gave me a better price, so I gave my money to him. I paid less to get back to Amman then I paid to get to Petra. He charged me 70 JD, or 98 USD. I asked him how much it would be to stop at The Dead Sea. Though not entirely on the way to Amman, it was only a small detour, and I had extra time to kill. Why not? It was an additional 30 USD, and not knowing when I’d be back in Jordan, I agreed. I have no regrets. Though I was not able to swim because we were not at a shallow spot, I was so thrilled to finally see The Dead Sea! It was also a cool experience to see that Palestine was only steps away, and yet, we could not enter due to political conflict.

Getting Back To Amman

As mentioned, I paid 98 USD, or 70 JD to get back to Amman (without the addition of The Dead Sea). I highly recommend grabbing a meal in the city of Amman instead of at the airport. There’s not a whole lot going on at The Amman airport, and to my surprise, I arrived early. My driver actually invited me to dinner at his family’s home, a common gesture in The Middle East, but out of fear I’d miss my flight, I refused. I somewhat regret that decision; I had over 4 hours to kill at the airport and the best food I could find was an overpriced mediocre sandwich.

In Conclusion…

Seeing Petra is indeed possible on a long layover in Amman. The key takeaways are to ask the airline for the layover extension, arrange a driver ahead of time, bring a jacket and good shoes, and have some funds ready, as Jordan is extremely expensive.