Sorrento: My time with the Rosalia Famiglia

Deciding where to stay in the Amalfi Coast is something I hear a lot of people questioning. There are perks to each spot:

Positano– picturesque views of the typical Amalfi Coast, beaches, and along every step there will be good food and wine (and limoncello).

Ravello– the top point of the Amalfi Coast, leading to stunning views.

Amalfi– close enough to both Positano and Ravello with a less hefty price tag.

Sorrento– not technically part of the Amalfi Coast, but easily accessible from Amalfi. Boats leave several times a day to Positano, Capri, Ischia, Amalfi, etc. Also near busses and train stations. Easy access to Naples which is easy access to Rome.

I wanted to stay in Positano, but with only four days and three nights, I thought to try Sorrento since I’d be coming from Rome and didn’t feel like dealing with the long travel all the way down to the coast. I found an Airbnb to stay with a family on a farm, under a damn lemon grove, and thought, yepp, here’s my ticket to paradise.

The selling point of it all? I messaged them to make sure it would be easy access to get to Capri and Positano as those were my main two interests (thank you, internet), and the host Lia responded and said “We will drive you everywhere, it is included in the price.” Be still, my little black heart.

I arrived to the Sorrento port, and via whatsapp was in communication with Lia. I said “how will I find you?” she said “Look for the yellow panda!” I wondered, what is a yellow panda? But of course, it was a yellow Fiat (Italy, I love you and your true stereotypes).

Lia picked me up with her dog Zucchero (in Italian, that’s Sugar!), and I immediately knew I was going to love everything I was about to experience.

I started talking to her rather quickly (at this point, everyone in Italy communicated in English with me), and she said “My English not so good,” which humbled me quickly. I tried to say “I’m sorry, I’m in your country, I should be speaking Italian!” and she said “No! I should know English!” and we shared a laugh.

After a bunch of windy narrow roads (have you seen season 2 of Master of None? Do you remember when Aziz’s character gets stuck going down a street? Yupp, it’s just like that), we arrived at the house. We were truly in the middle of nowhere, but only about fifteen minutes from civilization. It was just green.

A handful of people were in the front yard setting something up, and she said, “We have a party for the baby. You are welcome to join.” I wanted to ask who’s baby? Can I help? But I knew she was struggling with English and I was nervous, so I just smiled.

I went into my room and felt a little out of place. I wasn’t sure if I should go downstairs and try to mingle with my family for the next few days, curl in a ball and fall asleep, or ask her politely if I can go to town (in which I would need a ride). I decided to go downstairs and see what’s up, and a little girl (who I later learned was named Ana) said (in perfect English), “Would you like coffee or water?” I said “Water! Thank you!” She came back a minute later with a glass of cold water and said “Here you go,” with a big smile on her face.

Lia drove me to Sorrento and I had dinner there from an overpriced touristy spot. I got a fish pasta and found three pin bones in it, and it was triple the price of anything I had paid for in Italy up to that point; summer in/near the Amalfi Coast, in a nutshell.

Lia came back to pick me up a few hours later. I went to bed and the next morning when I came downstairs, breakfast was prepared for me. It was prosciutto and sheep’s cheese, espresso, peach juice, and some bread. I thanked Lia and she drove me to the bus station so I could go to Positano. I hung out in Positano for a bit but really had my mind on the Rosalia family. I thought to myself, I’m staying with a family who grew up here, if I really want to learn about this culture, I should be spending my time with them. After about four hours in Positano, I was in touch with Lia to return. I was not sure what the dinner situation would be, so I grabbed a bite to eat back in Sorrento before Lia picked me up, though I was admittedly not too hungry yet.

Lia picked me up with her two daughters and Zucchero again. One of the daughters was Ana, who was the one who offered me the coffee and water on my first day, and the other was Angela. Angela was a little firecracker; she was the younger sassy one. She didn’t love to listen to what she was told to do, and danced to the beat of her own drum (she kind of reminded me of a young me). Ana was incredibly bright. She was sharp. As a young nine-year-old, I already see Ana has an old soul. She was aware of what’s going on, but still unafraid to have fun.

The day prior, I had seen another dog on the farm, so in the car ride back, I asked about him, in butchered Italian.

Lia said “Her name is Fortuna.” I said “How old is Fortuna?” She said “Abandonement. Fortuna means ehhhh….”

OH. Fortuna. Fortune? FORTUNE.

As soon as we got back to the house, I pet Fortuna and Zucchero. I ran around with them in the wide open field (I may or may not have been about 3 glasses of vino in), and noticed Lia was looking for me. She asked if I had eaten already, which I definitely had, but I was like “nope I’m famished please feed me.”

She started to prepare dinner and when I asked if I could do anything to help, she said, “Set the table, please!” I went out to set the table, but of course, little Ana said “finito” and had already taken care of it. Ana, why are you so perfect?

We ate dinner which consisted of prosciutto (these people like their cured meats), the best mozzarella one could ever taste, fresh tomatoes (I don’t think she even did anything to them other than grow them and I could bite into one like an apple and cry of happiness), basil, bread, and for dessert cioccolate nocciolo tarte y tiramisu. Lia also prepared homemade wine (what?!) and when I, in so many words, told her I enjoy a nice beverage, lovely little Ana said, “Hang on!” and came back moments later with homemade limoncello that her mom had prepared! Ana, you’re a girl after my own heart!

We watched a horrible Italian reality TV show (think The Bachelor) where a man was caught cheating on his girlfriend but used the fact that she liked to smoke against her. The Rosalias, the beautiful family that they are, tried to explain to me, “she fumare, but she forte!”

The next morning, Lia brought me to the Sorrento port so I could go to Capri. I was in Capri and I felt melancholy. It was my last day in Italy and all I wanted to do was be back with that family. I was really growing to love them.

Luckily for me, when I returned, they asked if I wanted dinner again (the answer is always yes).

We talked about American culture, I explained to them how we eat huge breakfasts, often three eggs, some bread, bacon or sausage, and potatoes or some type of vegetable or fruit, and they were in shock. They said the Italians only eat prosciutto and cheese, but for lunch, almost always they eat pasta. I told them I make drinks as a living, and I also sing and travel. Angela also loved to sing and dance and started to put on a show for me.

I got out my GoPro and said, “Ok I’m going to film you! Now is your chance!” and pretended she was on a reality show (they loved reality shows). Ana and I cheered her on as Angela danced and danced and danced and danced. I used my laptop to play Kesha, Katy Perry, and Lady Gaga. Ana eventually got up to dance, too, and these girls were having the time of their lives. At one point, Angela fell and began to cry. Lia ran out, clearly distressed. I didn’t want her to feel like her kids were in bad hands (though, questionable, as I was once again a little sauced up on that homemade vino), so as soon as Lia came out, I went up to Angela (who was deep into tears over a bruised knee), and I said “you are forte!” and made her give me a high-five. She immediately smiled and got back up and danced again, causing Lia to smile, as well.

The next morning when it was time to leave, both girls came down to hug me, without saying a word. They drove me to the port and I had to sadly say goodbye. I almost cried but managed to keep it together. But, as I write this, tears are strolling down my face. This family made me feel right at home, and I can confidently say it was the most life-changing travel experience I’ve had to date.

Looking back, I would trade all of my time in Capri, Positano, and any of the touristy things I did for another day with this family. Instagram and google won’t inform you of experiences like this. They show you what’s picturesque. They show you what will give you instagram likes. They won’t show you what’s going to change your world and make you question the value of your current state.

Grazie to the Rosalia family for allowing a total stranger to feel so inclusive, and so at home. I am fortunato.